Pulse-Width-Modulator allows variable heat output to grips. Advantage of this is more than just giving you more control over the heat output, it is going to use less electrical current (amps) or power (watts) from your system, so that allows for brighter headlight on systems that are marginal to start with. Other tricks you can do to save on engine electrical system power are to switch to LED head-light and tail-light bulbs. CANNOT be used for heated clothing which usually draw too much current and would cause the built-in circuit breaker to trip. Some customers of our 35 year old model 401 heated grips have in error wired their two model 401 grips in "parallel", which means each grip is getting full voltage instead of 50% voltage. The doubling of voltage multiplies the wattage by 4, which WILL melt the grip and short it out (ruining it) after distorting it. This incorrect wiring will cause the internal circuit breaker in the Variable Heat Controller to trip, because the amps will be too high. The circuit breaker inside the VHC will reset itself when it cools off internally.
The models with 6 numbers in them such as 475-875, 525-875, 475-100, etc. are to be wired in parallel, and the VHC unit is wired between the power source and the grips. The model 401 grips must be wired in "series", but again the VHC unit is wired between the power source and the first grip of the pair. In "series" will mean that each grip puts out 15 watts on full heat at a nominal 12v. but in fact each grip will see only 50% of the available voltage. When the model 401 are incorrectly wired in "parallel" the grips will attempt to output 60 watts each, which at 400% of design wattage, is enough to melt the grips and of course trip the internal circuit breaker in our VHC-V2 device. Other feature of this VHC-V2 unit is that it has a click-detent off position, a feature absent from our previous aluminum bodied controller. Panel mount only, just the knob will show above the panel mount location you choose. NOT intended for handlebar mounting. Easy two wire installation, red wire is for power source, black is output to the grips.
You cannot test the output of the VHC unit with a voltmeter, instead you must test the output with the correct electrical load such as a correctly wired heated grips kit.
The VHC-V2 eliminates the toggle switch and resistor for any heated grip installation. so the toggle switch and ceramic resistor are removed from the kit when this is ordered to avoid confusion. Counter-clockwise is no heat, clockwise is increasing the heat output to the grips. Heat changes from a lowest setting of 25% voltage "on" time and gradually intensifies to 99% voltage "on" time. Built-in automatic circuitry has a 4 amp circuit-breaker which prevents use for heated clothing, it CANNOT be used for heated clothing, which by their nature will draw more than 4 amps. Dimensions: Maximum housing is 2-1/8"" diameter. Maximum housing depth is 1". Black control knob is approximately 13/16" diameter, and it can be removed by pulling outward on it. Lead wires are 9" long fine-stranded 20 AWG irradiated thin-wall and very tough PVC insulation with tinned very-fine strand copper conductor. The threaded shaft uses one mounting nut. Housing on the back side is black silicone sealant potted for weatherproofing. No LED indicator light supplied but you can fit any 12v LED in "parallel" to black wire if you desire, and be sure to wire your LED with correct polarity with the correct LED wire to your system ground.
Red wire is the "power-in source" and the black wire is fed out to the heated grips.
This will NOT fit in our handlebar mount switch housing which is intended only for our stock toggle switch.
To view the installation instructions go to: Variable Heat Controller
This VHC cannot be tested by simply connecting a volt-ohm-meter to the output wire to observe voltage...this will not give you a voltage reading without the correct electrical load. You MUST have the electrical load on the Variable Heat Controller and then test for voltage in parallel with your meter. If you do not have the heated grips load on, then the voltage from your test-meter depending on the model of your meter, may ruin the controller circuitry.
Want to build your own variable heat controller, they are a lot of work, but there is an alternative design on the internet, here's a good link on the basics: